The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru is also showing very well from bottle, opening in the glass with a lovely bouquet of crisp green orchard fruit, citrus oil, white flowers, blanched almonds and wheat toast. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a deep and layered core, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. While this can't quite match the mid-palate volume of the Montrachet, it certainly nods to Montrachet in style. Readers able to track down a few bottles should plan on exercising at least a decade's patience.
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