The 2004 Cote Rotie La Mordoree is dark ruby/purple in 2004 with notes of cassis, melted licorice, incense, and pepper. The wine has good power, concentration, although not the intensity of the great vintages, but this is a strong effort for 2004. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

The 2004 Cote Rotie La Mordoree is dark ruby/purple in 2004 with notes of cassis, melted licorice, incense, and pepper. The wine has good power, concentration, although not the intensity of the great vintages, but this is a strong effort for 2004. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Made from 70–80-year-old estate-grown vines, this boasts a tremendously complex and seductive bouquet of smoke, violets, raspberries and blackberries. In the mouth, it’s a bit less exciting although still very good; it’s juicy and fresh, with some firm tannins that are accentuated by crisp acidity. Give it a few years, then drink up before 2015.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 89