In the mouth, bold black fruit takes on lots of molasses, or brown sugar, and that sweetness carries through to the finish. The package is wrapped with a ribbon of eucalyptus that’s deep on the nose, and gives the otherwise dark-and-sweet flavors a nice, unexpected tweak. One to drink with a beef roast, particularly if it’s served with gravy or a reduced wine sauce. ——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 89