One of the least expressive, more backward wines of the 1996s, the 1996 Chardonnay Camp Meeting Ridge Vineyard rivals the Vine Hill cuvee for high acidity and restraint. However, at the back of the mouth, tropical fruit flavors of peaches, corn, and wet stones compete for attention. All of this is held together by crisp acidity, and subtle toasty oak from high quality French oak barrels. This wine reminds me of some of the more backward grand crus from Burgundy's Cote d'Or.
All the Kistler Chardonnays are made in a Burgundian manner. They are barrel-fermented, given full malolactic fermentation, extensive lees stirring, racked out of their barrels following a year's cask aging, and allowed to settle in tank until bottling, which usually occurs without any fining or filtration. All of the wines reviewed in this segment were tasted from tank as they were awaiting bottling early next year.
Readers should recognize that Kistler's policy is to sell most of their production directly to consumers and restaurants. Readers who live in states that permit direct shipment of California wines should be sure and get on the winery's mailing list.
Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709