The 1997 Padrone (only 580 six-packs produced from yields of one ton of fruit per acre) is an impressive blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16.5% Merlot, and 8.5% Cabernet Franc. It boasts a saturated black/purple color as well as aromas of new oak, licorice, cassis liqueur, and earth. It is full-bodied, rich, and super-extracted with high tannin but good balance. This full-bodied, powerful, rich red requires 4-5 years of cellaring; it will keep for two decades. Tel. (707) 255-5990

Amazingly rich and smooth, with bold, ripe, polished currant, mocha, vanilla, plum and chocolate, gaining depth and nuance, finishing with a long, lingering aftertaste. Best from 2002 through 2012. 290 cases made. -JL

Cassis liqueur, blueberry notes and a smoky cured-meat element comprise the nose of this engaging, beautifully balanced offering. Dried cherry, cedar, tea and tobacco flavors predominate, and the texture is supple. The long finish displays handsome cherry and coffee notes, with plentiful but even tannins. Almost drinkable now, but best after 2002.——W.E.(11/1/2000)—— 92