The most obvious value among the four Bethel Heights Pinot Noirs is the 1992 Estate Pinot Noir. An attractive black-cherry/floral-scented nose is followed by supple, medium-bodied flavors exhibiting fine ripeness, chewy glycerin, and an expansive palate. This delicate, elegant Pinot Noir should be drunk over the next 3-4 years. Bethel Heights excels at making stylish, seductive, richly fruity Pinot Noirs that resemble high class premier crus from the Cote de Beaune. The four fine offerings reviewed in this issue exhibit little difference in quality, although I expect the two Reserve wines to gain additional weight in the bottle. All of these wines are best consumed in their first 6-7 years of life. All are made in a seductive style that clearly demonstrates Pinot Noir's hedonistic appeal. Tel. (503) 581-2262.