Alzinger’s 2004 Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg smells of pears, lemon, mint, and a note of wood smoke. The palate impression is intense, sweetly herbal, and compactly mineral, with juicy pit fruits, tart citrus and red currant, and a faintly bitter note of fruit pits following in an impressively long if rather austere finish. Especially for having been recently bottled, this certainly needs the benefit of doubt and time to show a more expansive side. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300