The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg offered concentration and class. Peaches, along with herbal and root vegetable aromas, brought to mind Gruner Veltliner. The palate impression is waxy in texture, with peach, pumpkin, and herb flavors given a salty mineral accent. Low key though lovely in the nose like many an Alzinger wine, it nonetheless builds on the palate and then delivers imposing, subtly complex length. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

This is an intense, powerful wine, racy and fresh while also being full flavored and opulent. Exotic perfumes reminiscent of honey and wild flowers waft from the glass. ——R.V.(10/1/2006)—— 90