The Alzinger 2007 Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg smells alluringly of buddleia, wisteria, white peach and fresh lime. Lusciously fruity, refreshing, and exuding extract sweetness, yet under girded by a sense of density, this remarkably-balanced Riesling finishes with dramatic persistence of floral perfume, crushed stone, and mysteriously savory salinity that seem to well up out of the oceanic blue. Marvel at it over the next 8-10 years. Leo Alzinger senior’s lucid account of the 2007 vintage can be found in the general introduction to this report. After the extraordinary collection that he and his son, Leo, fielded from 2006, its successor – while different in personality – did not disappoint one bit. (I don’t know whether this was punishment for past sins, but I am sorry to have to report that your correspondent was not offered an opportunity to taste Riesling Smaragd bottlings from Liebenberg and Hohereck.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Soft and perfumed, the flavors are elegant but intense at the same time. The acidity gives a great freshness to what is in fact a rich wine, the apple and pear flavors going deep down to the steely core. It would be worth aging this wine—maybe 3–5 years.——R.V.(7/1/2009)—— 91