Ponsot's 1999 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru is superb, wafting from the glass with a vibrant bouquet of cherries, plums, cassis, rich soil, black tea, umami-like bass notes and dried roses. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and complete, with a youthful core of beautifully pure fruit, fine-grained structuring tannins, excellent energy and delineation and a long, tangy finish. This is one of those vintages where one feels Chapelle-Chambertin's proximity to the Clos de Bèze. This is just entering the beginning of its plateau.