The sharp, unmistakable scent of new French oak barrels hits you immediately, and it plays nicely against this winery’s naturally spicy, lightly resinous style of Pinot Noir. The elegant side of Oregon Pinot Noir is also on display, partly a virtue of the winery, partly a reflection of the vintage. Though light, it is not simple, and the black raspberry and black cherry fruit is mixed with streaks of cola, anise and clove. ——P.G.(10/1/2010)—— 90