Hirtzberger’s 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Rotes Tor smells of green beans and lilacs. Notes of lightly-cooked beet join in on a glossy palate, with toasted nuttiness, coffee, herbs, and stony mineral suggestions emerging in the finish. This impressively rich wine displays much darker flavor shadings than the corresponding Federspiel, with less interplay of flavor and juicy intensity, an instance where less hang time seems to have been better. I would plan on drinking it over the next five years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700