Hirtzberger’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Rotes Tor – picked over the first half of November – displays an unusually rich, low-toned impression, featuring beet root, malt, mocha-coffee, and peach preserves. But for all of its rounded richness, gloss, extract sweetness, and sense of stuffing, there is more than enough fresh fruit juiciness and acidity here to keep things succulently satisfying. I suspect this is an instance where the Smaragd will not outlive the corresponding Federspiel, and would be inclined to plan on enjoying this over the next 4-5 years. Most of Hirtzberger’s 2007 vintage Gruner Veltliner reflect their late dates of harvest and the presence of botrytis (a certain amount of which he always welcomes) in rich, low tones.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700