Loads of spicy black fruits are found in the aromatic profile of the 2003 Camaspelo, a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc. Displaying wonderful intensity of flavors, this blackberry, cassis, and dark cherry-packed offering is pure, medium to full-bodied, and long in the finish. A broad, mouth-coating wine, it also exhibits a lush, velvety texture. Drink it over the next 6-8 years. Tel. (509) 301-6972; www.cayusevineyards.com

Cayuse’s Bordeaux blend shows remarkable complexity and detail for such a young red wine. Earthy undergrowth, autumnal fungus, some sweetness in the fruit, some brown sugar; it’s got so much going on. Long and lingering, it’s a fascinating mix of herb, mushroom, cranberry, rock, all interwoven with some pretty, spicy sweet oak. ——P.G.(4/1/2006)—— 92