The Bordeaux-styled reds begin with the 2007 Camaspelo, a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc. The already complex aromatics reveal mineral, Asian spices, incense, violets, black currant and black cherry. In the mouth it offers a lovely combination of power and elegance, along with ripe tannins, leading to a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. Give it 4-6 years of additional cellaring and drink it through 2022. A cult of personality seems to have developed in Washington over the past couple of years. Whenever the name Christophe is mentioned, everyone immediately knows of whom you are talking. The man himself, Christophe Baron continues to find new and interesting things to do. His latest vineyard project is well underway on hillsides not far from his present location. His estate, just on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla AVA, consists of five small but distinct vineyards (41 acres in total – with more on the way). Syrah and the Bordeaux varietals are the principal focus but some of the finest parcels of Tempranillo and Grenache grown in the USA are on this estate. Unfortunately, there will be no more varietally bottled Viognier which will now be used only as a blending grape. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and much of the estate is planted on rootstock to prepare for the day when phylloxera works its way through Walla Walla. The wines are all fermented with indigenous yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tel. (509) 526-0686; www.cayusevineyards.com

The Camaspelo—a 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cab Franc blend—is a little bigger, a little thicker in the mouth than the Flying Pig, but with similar fruit and grip. The mineral base, dusty cherry and currant fruit and accent notes of cured meats give this wine a layered complexity; it unfolds gracefully across the palate and down into a long finish. Still very young, but with exceptional aging potential.——P.G.(2/1/2011)—— 94