The 2002 Chardonnay Clone 76 Inox exhibits a refreshing yet full-bodied personality with great fruit as well as palate presence. Hints of orange rind are found in this floral, steely, structured, citrusy Chardonnay. Loaded with flavor and texture (although it’s never seen a day in wood), it comes across as a full-throttle Chablis. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. What is especially impressive about all the Melville offerings is their purity and singular personalities. Virtually everyone I talked to in Santa Barbara applauds the meticulous craftsmanship and viticultural skills of proprietor Chad Melville. His talent is obvious in these outstanding efforts. Tel. (805) 735-7030

An entirely unoaked wine designed to showcase its terroir, which it does in the tartly crisp acidity and streamlined citrus and apple flavors. The wine drinks severe and steely sharp. The bottle I tasted was also a little fizzy.——S.H.(12/15/2003)—— 86