In the confusing world of Burgundy's domaine names, there are many with the family name Gagnard (i.e, Gagnard-Delagrange, Blaine-Gagnard). This estate, owned by Richard Fontaine, is considered to be the finest of the Gagnard-named domaines. These 1992s are knock-out white burgundies. I was surprised that the 1992 Criots-Batard-Montrachet did not perform as well as Fontaine's top premier crus from Chassagne. Although excellent wine, it is monolithic, full-bodied, dense, and chunky, without as much expression. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ.