The 1997 Criots-Batard-Montrachet is magnificent. Flint, sea salt, chalk, and sun-baked stones can be discerned in its compelling aromatics. This is a complex, gorgeously-focused, satin-textured, rather thick wine. Dense layers of toasty minerals, dried honey, roasted pears, anise, flower blossoms, spices, and an extremely appealing earthy quality coat the taster's palate. This superb Criots is medium-to-full-bodied, impeccably balanced, and extremely long in the finish. Wow! Projected maturity: 2002-2008+. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel (212) 818-0770.