Dramatic and expressive, the 2018 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru exhibits aromas of orange rind, peach, honeyed pears and marzipan. Full-bodied, supple and textural, it's an enveloping but youthfully structured wine that will reward at least a couple of years of bottle age. Céline Gagnard told me that this site handled the hot conditions well.