Domaine Nicolas's 2006 Fiefs Vendeens Jacques represents the estate's best, barrel-aged Pinot Noir, blended with 15% Cabernet Franc. (The less-successful 2005 - reviewed in issue 172, where I forgot to mention its sub-appellation 'Brem' - was pure Pinot.) A delightful nose of ripe red raspberry, mulberry, grenadine, high-toned maraschino, spice cake, and new leather leads to a palate striking in its combination of sappy cling, viscosity, and cut, underlain by ample but fine-grained tannin. Strong evocations of fruit pits, berry skin, crushed stone, and soy lend a bittersweet and invigorating cast to a finish bursting with lasting flavor. Completely unlike any Pinot I know from elsewhere - but then, how many are grown on schist, much less blended with Cabernet Franc? - I suspect that given this wine's youthful energy after nearly three years in bottle, it will satisfy for at last another 3-5. From south of Nantes, and with views from his vineyards onto the Atlantic, Thierry Michon - an impassioned proponent of biodynamics - is growing some fascinating wines that are bringing recognition to the little known Vendee and its sub-appellation Brem.A Jon-David Headrick Selection (various importers), Asheville, NC; tel. (828) 252 8245