The 2009 Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes is a deep, muscular wine imbued with the essence of blackberries, blueberries, spices and licorice. The fruit wraps around the palate beautifully in this round, sensual wine. Despite the wine’s richness, this also reveals impressive freshness, minerality and length, which Lignier attributes to a high percentage of whole clusters relative to some of his wines from previous years. The Vieilles Vignes is made from parcels in Chenevery, Tres Girard and Cognees, with an average age above 50 years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Virgile Lignier’s 2009s show notable intensity and ripeness, but also preserve quite a bit of freshness through the use of whole clusters, which reach as much as 100% in two wines. The Bourgogne and Chambolle were bottled in December 2010. I tasted all of the other wines from tank. Bottling was scheduled for the end of March 2011. Readers will find notes on a handful of 2008s on www.erobertparker.com. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including : Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404