At nearly 20 years of age, the deep garnet-hued 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore (part of this year's annual library release) shows some brick at the rim and offers up classic cigar-box aromas of dried tobacco, cedar and vanilla, plus ample notions of dried fruit. It's medium to full-bodied, plush and velvety in feel, with a lingering finish and softly dusty tannins. Fully mature but in no danger of drying out soon, it should continue to drink well for at least another three or four years.

A bit closed now, locked down by stubborn tannins and a slight mustiness, but it’s a very good wine that should begin to open in a few years. It’s got rich black cherry, currant and herb flavors. Best after 2008.——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 87