The Marc Morey 2007 Chassagne Montrachet Les Vergers smells of honeysuckle, lily, lime, and honeydew melon; comes to the palate lush in texture yet lusciously juicy; and finishes with chalk and stone undertones that offer a perfect foil to the dripping ripeness of melon and liquid flowers. Hints of lime zest and red currant in the finish offer further counterpoint and serve for a bit of invigoration. This is irresistible already, although I imagine one could hold if for a half dozen years. Bernard Mollard began picking September 3 and brought in his crop in short order, in the end chaptalizing no more than half a degree. His wines underwent malolactic conversion already by early Spring – typical at this domaine – and were bottled at one year. The estate’s acreage is supplemented by contracts on five parcels in which they officially act as negociant, but exercise considerable control. “I like the way 2007 respects the terroir,” comments Mollard. “You can well tell the difference from one site to another.” I don’t disagree in general, but a more obvious feature of his 2007 collection – and a very flattering one – is sheer forwardness of ripe fruit, which results in a very strong family resemblance. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083