The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva emerges from the glass with a sweet, open bouquet of menthol, red cherries, licorice, spices, and cedar. This is a relatively understated, delicate Riserva, with finessed, silky tannins that frame a long, lingering finish. The Riserva is quite open and accessible today; the only question mark is whether it has enough depth to support extended cellaring. In 2004 the Riserva is composed predominantly of fruit from the northern section of Montalcino (81%), while the remainder of the fruit is sourced from vines in Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024.
This is a very convincing set of new releases from Altesino; only the 2008 Rosso is disappointing.
A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620