From the botrytis-susceptible, chalky lower reaches of this site, the 2004 Pinot Gris Rosenberg Calcarius features aromas and flavors of spiced dried apple and peach, palpable chalkiness, and slight smokiness, and a broad, somewhat sweet, and rich – if texturally slightly coarse – finish. The affable Francois Barmes vocally advocates biodynamic viticulture and earlier harvesting to achieve balanced wines of juicy fruit and digestabilite. That said, more than a few of those I tasted were big-bodied to say the least, and certain of them could not handle their alcohol.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.