Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère has a comparatively straightforward if well-defined bouquet although it does not have the cohesion and complexity of Boillot's Les Perrières. The palate has a brisk and stony entry. There is plenty of salinity here: strict and precise with quite a punchy sea-influenced finish. It calls out for a plate of fruits de mer that would counterbalance its terseness. Tasted May 2016.

An old favourite… Dense and rich with a top note of struck matches and some of the delicacy that has been missing from some of these Lea & Sandeman white burgundies. I can’t see how anyone would fail to be pleased by this – at a price. Okay, it’s not subtle but… Long.