Whereas the Clos des Réas is dominated by its new oak, the 2000 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Br?lées is evolving more gracefully, offering up a pretty bouquet of dark chocolate, game bird, orange rind and dried red-black fruit. On the palate, the wine is sweet, full-bodied and supple, with good amplitude and a deepish, multidimensional core of ripe fruit. If you own any bottles, start pulling corks.