The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Brulees comes from vines that border the Richebourg owned by Michel’s brother Bernard (see Gros Frere & Soeur). It has quite a powerful, intense bouquet with black fruit, dark plum and touches of dried violet petals that shows impressive finesse. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe, almost sinewy tannins that lend this premier cru very good weight. What it needs is a little more tension and terroir to filter through on the finish. Still, there is a lovely tingle of lemongrass on the aftertaste to be enjoyed: another fine Aux Brulees to add to many others this year.
It is always a pleasure to see Michel Gros, with his bushy moustache and face that always reminds me of Bruce Forsythe had the TV star become a winemaker in Vosne-Romanee. “Spring was difficult because of mildew and oidium,” Michel explained as we tasted in his office. “We had to do 13 treatments during the year, which is the most we have ever done. It was difficult finding time to get into the vineyard and apply treatments. In the end the crop was 25% down, about 30hl/ha due to the poor flowering and coulure.” The harvest started on 21 September and finished on 3 October in the Hautes Cotes. As usual, Michel practices a warm fermentation that reached 35 degrees during maceration. “C’etait un vinification facile,” he tells me. I always enjoy Michel’s wine and I agree with the point made in Remington Norman/Charles Taylor MW “The Great Domaines of Burgundy” that stylistically they sit comfortably between the pure, elegant style off Anne Gros and the richer, burlier style of Bernard Gros. His 2012s really hit their stride when we get to Vosne-Romanee, including his monopole Clos des Reas and like Anne, Michel has overseen an exquisite Clos de Vougeot this year. Overall, I found much more to savor in these nascent wines than the 2011s and given their reasonable price tags, come recommended.
Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com and also through Thorman Hunt (UK).
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