Babcock’s 2010 Pinot Noir Microcosm Rancho La Vina is a big, big wine, yet all the elements are in place. A heady melange of black cherries, plums and spices jumps from the glass in this extroverted Pinot. There is considerable sweetness and juiciness in the fruit, but here, too, everything is in fabulous harmony, as a firm backbone of tannins frames all of the elements. The La Vina will appeal most to readers who appreciate the bolder side of Pinot. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. I very much like what I tasted from Bryan Babcock this year. In particular, a handful of the 2010 Pinots are flat-out gorgeous.Tel. (805) 736-1455; info@babcockwinery.com

Rich, dry and pretty full-bodied for a Pinot Noir, this is stuffed with flavors of cherry pie and cola, made brisk by acidity. A little heavy, but sound and complex. — (7/1/2012) —88