The after-dinner 1991 Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito offers a huge, smoky, bacon fat, raisiny nose that symbolizes the wine's unrestrained, almost excessive personality. Sweet, with pruny, raisiny flavors, amazing concentration, and 15.7% alcohol, its finish explodes in the mouth. Italians consider this wine to be an important historical wine as it has been made for centuries from Umbria's indigenous Sagrantino grape. Given its strength and uncontrollable exuberance, its ageability should be significant, but I have not had any experience with such wines. Only 25 cases were imported to the United States. I have had Paolo Bea's wines in the past and they are both controversial and incredibly variable in quality and character. These wines elicit a similar reaction as those of the Coturri brothers in Sonoma. Readers will be divided between bestowing them with extraordinary admiration or outright condemnation. Their exaggerated, distinctive and funky styles guarantee plenty of controversy. Importer: Neal Rosenthal. His selections can be purchased at his retail shop in Manhattan (tel. 212-249-6650 and fax 212-744-3354). His address is P.O. Box 658, Route 83, Shekomeko, NY 12567; telephone 800-910-1990.