The 2008 G Pago la Jara is from a single parcel of old vines, fermented in small wooden tanks and aged in 1,500-liter foudres and oak casks. It offers an attractive bouquet of dark cherry, iodine, vanilla pod and black olive that gently unfurls in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy, sweet opening that is matched by quite stark acidity. It would benefit from a little more harmony, the acidity and fruit singing from a different hymn sheet, although the finish has a pleasant piquancy and finesse. Drink now-2020. Readers will already be aware of my admiration for one of Spain’s most talented winemakers. I tasted three recent releases from Telmo Rodriguez at my home. The project began in 1998 when he began searching for good terroirs with the Eguren family (see Numanthia/Teso La Monja.) The vines are only un-grafted bush vines, as one would expect given Telmo’s principles, which he espoused in last year’s video. Importer: Michael Quinttus, Vintus Importers, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000