Kalin's 1989 Semillon does not taste as if it emerged from a rain-plagued vintage. The wine displays an intense, buttery, waxy, richly fruity nose, concentrated, well-delineated flavors that offer considerable body and glycerin, and a long, crisp finish. For those who have never tried Semillon with salmon, check it out. It is one of those magical combinations where the fatness of the fish works marvelously with the character of Semillon.Kalin makes California's finest Semillon. I have been buying this wine since the early eighties, and unlike most California white wines, it actually benefits from cellaring. It would seem illogical that a full-time microbiologist, who is working part-time out of a warehouse in Novato, produces some of California's most profound and long-lived wines.