At age 12, the 1998 Semillon Livermore (a blend of 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc) exhibits waxy honeysuckle, Chartreuse liqueur and a slightly herbal component in its medium to full-bodied, concentrated personality. Impressive in a singular style, I suspect it is a “l(fā)ove it or leave it” wine (as most Semillons tend to be), but this white wine remains remarkably youthful at age 12.Probably the most idiosyncratic winery in California (that covers a number of unusual and eccentric proprietors), Kalin Cellars, run by microbiologist Terry Leighton, has a remarkable track record of long-aged Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs and Semillons as well as Pinot Noirs, all of which march to the beat of a completely different drummer. I was a buyer early on until it became almost impossible to find the wines in the Maryland/DC market. I also tasted the 1998 Pinot Noir Cuvee DD, which I did not like. I say that because I have some of Kalin’s Pinot Noirs from the early eighties in my cellar and they are aging beautifully. I kept asking myself what I was missing in the 1998, but it was herbal and tomato-like. However, I have seen Leighton’s wines do complete make-overs in the bottle, so I could very well have misjudged this offering from an eccentric genius working out of a warehouse in Marin County.Tel. (415) 883-3543; Fax (925) 283-2909