A faintly cheesy, fermentative “Mosel stink” in the nose of Loewen’s 2009 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Kabinett is accompanied by yellow plum, peach, and very ripe yet pungent persimmon that combine for a sappy core of fruit expressing itself unemphatically but lingeringly. This should clear off nicely and prove even more delicious over the coming 8-10 years than it is already. Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.)Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300