The 1991 Percarlo, from another mostly forgotten vintage, is shockingly good. Dark red cherries, flowers, mint and licorice come together in the glass, all supported by vibrant tannins. Today the 1991 is utterly impeccable from start to finish. Hints of understated elegance and finesse linger on the palate. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2026. This complete vertical of Percarlo left me speechless. Brothers Luca and Francesco Martini di Cigala showed me every vintage of Percarlo, back to the inaugural 1983, a wine that has now run its full course. I was deeply struck by the consistency of the wines from year to year, and even more importantly, by the great showing of a number of wines from long forgotten vintages, proving yet again the importance of choosing producer over vintage. Percarlo started off as a selection of the estate’s best vineyards. In 2001 the Cigalas sharpened their approach by focusing on what is now literally a bunch by bunch selection across all of the fruit that comes into the winery, an approach they favor because of the huge inconsistency Sangiovese can often show from vine to vine, and even within the same cluster. I also tasted a few vintages of the Chianti Classico Le Baroncole, the top Sangiovese bottling made in vintages not deemed suitable for Percarlo. Readers who want to learn more about San Giusto and Percarlo may want to take a look at my recent video interview with proprietor Luca Martini di Cigala. San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Key Points: 1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best vineyards in Gaiole 2. A powerful, intense expression of Sangiovese 3. Remarkably consistent, even in lesser years 4. Aging potential: 20+ years

Offers charming aromas of ripe plum and cherry fruit, with spice, tobacco and earth notes. This is mature, but shows more fruit than the 1992, with a well-integrated structure and a lingering aftertaste of fruit, mineral and tobacco. Tasted from magnum.—Non-blind Percarlo vertical (August 2018). Drink now through 2024.??–BS??Region: Italy / Vino da Tavola-Tuscany Select to Add