A pure expression of Sangiovese, the delicious 2009 Percarlo shows warm tones of leather, pipe tobacco, wet earth, dried cherry and red rose petal. Aged 22 months in French oak, there’s enormous heft and determination at the back that does a great job holding up and matching the stunning intensity of the bouquet. Tight tannins, fresh acidity and a touch of sweet cherry characterize the mouthfeel. It’s impeccably balanced with ample length, but give it five to ten more years to evolve. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2035. Run by the Martini di Cigala siblings (Elisabetta, Luca and Francesco), Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano is a flagship winery in the Gaiole in Chianti subzone of the denomination. The wines presented are truly spectacular: They are among the best I have tasted this year. Importer: Marc de Grazia Selections; www.marcdegrazia.com