Revealing a dark plum/ruby color, the 1995 Dalmau Reserva appears to be closing down, but it has promise. New oak dominates at present, but notions of lead pencil, black fruits, earth, and smoked game are all present. A creamy attack is followed by copious amounts of tannin. Frankly, I would cellar this wine for another 3-4 years, and drink it over the following 15. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (732) 225-9000

89 Marques de Murrieta 1995 Dalmau Reserva (Rioja); $75. Big and earthy, with very good texture, but a little sweeter than the Prado Lagar. Cherry fruit, rich mouthfeel, and a warm persistent finish. Hold for 2 to 4 years.——W.E.(2/1/2000)—— 89