Named for both of its sub-sites, Guillemot’s 2008 Corton Rognet et Corton comes from vines acquired in 1999, a portion of which are ancient though of unknown age. High-toned cherry and almond extract, vanilla and medicinal herbal essences and iodine make for a riveting nose, and the palate impression that follows is pungent and piquant, with crushed stone and cherry pit as well the complex melange promised in the nose. This is darkly-hued in personality although its fruit retains the typically tart edge of the vintage. I imagine it will be worth following for more than a decade, although a track record – such as Guillemots have amassed for Savigny – does not yet exist for Corton. A very young Vincent Guillemot – later joined by his father, Pierre – proudly took the lead in showing me his family wines, which I have known for years but until this April had not tasted in situ. These continue to represent excellent values and are good keepers. Guillemots bottled their 2008s in January which is a month later than usual, due to late malos and residual CO2. It would be most interesting to see these get longer elevage, and it appears that might lie in the future. As Vincent points out – and bearing in mind that the wines here have been good for much longer than that – the past decade has in several respects found them returning to methods that prevailed in his grandfather’s time. I did not have a chance to taste Guillemot’s 2007s as I used it instead to gain a foretaste of 2009 which will feature a new appellation, and which is promising indeed. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524