The 1994 red wines reviewed in this segment are all supple, silky, smooth-textured wines that are expressive, elegant, and already delicious to drink. 1994 appears to be a vintage where Graillot has produced intensely fragrant wines, as all of these offerings' bouquets exude aromas of pepper, black olives, cassis, and toast. The dark ruby/purple-colored 1994 Crozes-Hermitage reveals a meaty nose, silky smooth flavors, and a sense of elegance and style. Although it will drink well for 7-8 years, its charming character is hard to resist. Alain Graillot has been the spiritual and qualitative leader of the new generation of young wine producers largely centered in the less prestigious appellations of St.-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. It is hard to believe Graillot's excellent debut vintage was 1985. He consistently produces some of the finest, most reasonably priced wines of the northern Rhone. His best two vintages to date are 1989 and 1990 (truly profound wines were produced here and elsewhere in Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage). Graillot's 1994s are very fine, and his 1995s appear to be equally promising, perhaps superior. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620