Gregarious Alain Graillot, one of the bright, shining stars of Crozes-Hermitage, has turned out a 2004 Crozes-Hermitage that presents plenty of olive notes intermixed with some sweet red currant and cherry notes. The tart acidity and leanness of the vintage is relatively apparent in this wine, which is elegant and Burgundian in its texture and aromatics. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500, and Paul Bullard Associates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7957