Loewen’s 2009 Riesling Quant evinces salted, caraway- and bacon-laced yellow tomato and under-ripe apricot for an effect reminiscent of a Gewurztraminer and Riesling blend. The palate impression here though displays a fresh acidity and stony underlying cast that can only spell “Mosel Riesling.” At 11.5% alcohol and 11 grams of residual sugar, it tastes entirely dry and displays welcome levity, and Loewen has at least trained his private customers to the point where they will overlook the absence of “trocken” as an imprimatur of quality. (I write “at least,” because he says they are still wary, and few of them are willing to discover the pleasures of a wine with overt sweetness.) Plan to enjoy this over the next 2-3 years. Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.)Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300