The 2006 Glorioso Gran Reserva seems to be the one maintaining its more traditional profile with developed balsamic aromas of incense, sandalwood, leather and truffles. In the palate the fruit is receding and you feel the tannins a little. This doesn’t seem to be a very long-lived vintage, I think it’s time to drink it up. Drink 2014-2016. Bodegas Palacio in Laguardia is not to be confused with Palacios Remondo in Alfaro. It was founded in 1894 by Cosme Palacio, and remained in the hands of the Palacio family until it was sold in 1972 and again in 1987 to Jean Gervais, Seagram Europe’s former vice president, and a group of investors. Gervais created one of the first truly modern Riojas in the 1980s with the help of Michel Rolland, Cosme Palacio y Hermanos, a more concentrated and fruity wine where the oak aging had been shortened to one year and the oak used was French rather than American. The wine was a success. In 1998, the winery was sold to the Entrecanales group, today called Acciona, one of the largest business groups in Spain, who also own Arrayan in Mentrida, Vina Real in Ribera del Duero and Barcelo, makers of the popular brand, Penascal. They do not own vineyards but have long term agreements with some 60 grape growers from Laguardia which allows them to produce around 1.5 million bottles of wine per year. Vina Perdiz is the entry level label, Glorioso brand has a very accessible profile, while Cosme Palacio keeps faithful to the style they created in the late 1980s. Imported by Bronco Wine Co, Ceres, CC; tel. (209) 272-3000; www.broncowine.com