The 2003 Gran Cuvee Brut is a fat, opulent wine with an expressive core of sweet fruit that opens onto the palate with superb length. It is perhaps less aromatically compelling than the 2002 Gran Cuvee Brut but equally enjoyable in its own way. This has a higher percentage of Pinot Bianco than the NV Cuvee Brut. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2013. Oenologist Mattia Vezzola and Bellavista set the standard in Franciacorta, Italy’s most important zone for the production of high-quality methode champenoise wines. This is a superb set of releases that is sure to find many fans. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Here’s a complex and sophisticated sparkler with beautiful aromas of stone fruit, freshly baked bread, pressed flowers and crushed white pepper. The wine tastes rich and thick in the mouth and ends with piquant effervescence. ——M.L.(6/1/2010)—— 92