Weingut Carl Loewen Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Alte Reben Qba trocken, Mosel, Germany

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Loewen’s 2009 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling trocken Alte Reben – strictly from his ungrafted vines in that site, and weighing-in at 12.5% alcohol – delivers one of the most saline, smoky, stony generally piquant renditions of its great site that I can recall at any address. Pit fruits with their pits and citrus fruits with their rinds compliment that theme of piquancy on a polished, waxy palate, leading to a long, slightly austere finish. I would plan on enjoying this over the coming 6-8 years, although it might well enjoy a successful return- or extended engagement thereafter. Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.)Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300