The 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Alte Reben is legally trocken, but – in the spirit of enlightenment as well as of Loewen’s price list and his consumer education initiative – that descriptor is left off of the label. This smells of yellow plum, orange zest. and licorice along with sharp notes of botrytis. In the mouth, if offers excellent concentration and clarity, with continued themes of yellow plum, citrus, and bitter-sweet herbs, along with gooseberry tartness and a meat broth sense of underlying richness. The finish is long and quite complex in its range of fruit and mineral expressions, but – for now at least – a bit severe. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Alte Reben ($ unknown; 84+?), 2005 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay Riesling “Christopher’s Wine” ($ unknown; 85+?), 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese (unavailable; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300