Loewen’s 2007 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling trocken Alte Reben boasted virtually the same must weight this year as in most others, so consistent is the behavior of this parcel of ancient vines. Orange blossom, lemon zest, white pepper, and kumquat make for a memorably pungent nose. Palpable dense on the palate and suffused with strikingly savory salinity and crushed stone, this is at once so pungently zesty and firmly mineral, that its finish leans toward severity a fascinating to follow this in the bottle, but I shall refrain from prognostication. Meanwhile, it has a dramatic intensity today that is well worth experiencing, but demands food-pairing with care. Karl-Josef Loewen finds similarities in character between 2007 and 2002, which he illustrated with a now spectacular Thornicher Ritsch Spatlese, a wine I already admired in its youth, but about whose combination of botrytis and slight severity of acids I at that stage expressed slight concern. Still, I was not entirely convinced by the analogy, or by certain of Loewen’s 2007s. Few German growers I know are as sanguine about botrytis in general as he, and it certainly touched most of his wines in 2007, at times awkwardly.Importer:Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300