The 2005 Chardonnay Reserve was barrel-fermented and went through malolactic fermentation. It spent 16 months in barrel with lees stirring. The nose is a bit more sophisticated but on the palate the wine comes off as slightly superficial because of the lack of depth. Columbia Crest, owned by Ste-Michelle Wine Estates, has long been known for the quality of its value priced wines.Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

Here is another fine effort from Columbia Crest that captures some spice and keeps the fruit bright and fresh. Apple and citrus flavors, sharp and tangy, run up against lots of barrel toast. The finish is loaded with baking spices and lightly touched with candied orange peel.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 89