Lime, gentian, as well as intimations of ocean breeze and quarry dust in the nose of Billaud’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos transfer to a palate that strikingly combines density and lift; richness and bright refreshment. This is firm in feel and displays site-typical finishing chalk and white pepper, hardened a bit by being on its finings yet admirably energetic and superbly persistent. Expect it to be much-improved short term as well as fascinating to follow over the coming decade. Bernard Billaud agreed this year to show me his young grand crus in advance of their anticipated May or June bottling, even though they were on their finings. In addition, I was able to have my first taste of his 2007 grand crus. Imported by Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Lime, gentian, as well as intimations of ocean breeze and quarry dust in the nose of Billaud’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos transfer to a palate that strikingly combines density and lift; richness and bright refreshment. This is firm in feel and displays site-typical finishing chalk and white pepper, hardened a bit by being on its finings yet admirably energetic and superbly persistent. Expect it to be much-improved short term as well as fascinating to follow over the coming decade. Bernard Billaud agreed this year to show me his young grand crus in advance of their anticipated May or June bottling, even though they were on their finings. In addition, I was able to have my first taste of his 2007 grand crus.Imported by Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900