The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is the most reserved wine in the range, unfurling slowly with aromas of citrus zest, spring flowers and iodine that I'd expect to show more generosity with a few years' bottle age, while retaining its classic outlines. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and foursquare, with a concentrated, tight-knit profile and a tense, stony finish.