Chapoutier does a particularly fine job with St.-Joseph, and the 1998 Deschants rouge exhibits a dark ruby/purple color, as well as an excellent black cherry and berry-scented bouquet with an underlying mineral component. There is tangy acidity in the clean finish. It should be accessible upon release and is best consumed during its first 5-8 years of life.Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

Chapoutier does a particularly fine job with St.-Joseph, and the 1998 Deschants rouge exhibits a dark ruby/purple color, as well as an excellent black cherry and berry-scented bouquet with an underlying mineral component. There is tangy acidity in the clean finish. It should be accessible upon release and is best consumed during its first 5-8 years of life. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

A nosing of this is like getting up close with fresh pavement. It has a tar-like smell and some horsehide accents. The palate is grapy, while the finish is hard and leathery. Based on past tastings, the producer, the appellation and the vintage aren’t in doubt, but for some reason this wine doesn’t sing. –M.S.——M.S.(2/1/2003)—— 85